I just finished my first coat and now that it is dry, it is full of squeegee marks. I can tell each pass back and forth. The texture of each pass catches the light differently. Like vacuuming a carpet in different directions. Is there a technique issue? What can I do to change this?
Application marks are common on smooth driveways as the sealer has nothing to grab on to. Below please find a few hints to insure your second coat comes out better:
- Mix the pails thoroughly. Mixing the pails will thin the product, breaking down the gel feature. A thinner product is easier to squeegee.
- Be sure to break in the squeegee, put a weight on it so the rubber bends and flexes easier.
- Apply early in the morning, when the asphalt temp is cooler. This will prevent the coating from drying too quickly and the product from becoming too thick.
- While applying in a side to side manner, slightly twist the handle lifting up on the outer edge of the squeegee.
I have just finished my driveway and there are two clearly different shades of black. What has happened / what can I do to fix this?
This can be the result of a few things that you should AVOID:
- Starting and stopping.
- Not keeping the bead wet on the asphalt… ie. Don’t run a full pail out then start a fresh one. Keep the bead wet as you continue to next pail.
- Different purchases of product. Try and do the entire project at one time.
I have put the sealer down too thick and am getting “mud cracks”…what do I do?
Well, #1 we strongly recommend using the proper tool…our 18″ Seal Right Squeegee and bearing down on it while applying as you want to leave a thin coat. Not applying enough pressure (especially on rough pavement) or using the wrong tool can result in putting it down too thick which may result in tracking.
What you can do is pour a little water onto the mud cracked area right away and with a push broom work out those thick areas.
I am using the squeegee as directed to seal my driveway but am not able to get the edges too well with it. What do you recommend?
If you are not comfortable using a squeegee for the edges, or for areas that may be bordered by bricks or pavers, we recommend using a broom or wallpaper brush. You can do the edge the entire driveway first and then seal the driveway up to where you’ve edged in. Also, you can tape off any bricks you have to make sure no sealer is splashed up on them!
How many pails of sealer do I need for my driveway?
COVERAGE – The application rate of driveway coatings is very important. If you don’t use enough, you’ll have untreated areas of the driveway. If you use too much, the sealer will never “set up” / cure properly and the excess may track into your home. It is recommended that you spread a thin layer of sealer (using steady down-pressure on the squeegee during application), let it cure overnight. Allow it to cure at least 24 hours prior to car traffic (you can walk on it after a couple of hours on a nice day). Please allow overnight to dry/cure prior to applying a 2nd coat. (Note: For the warranty to be valid a 2nd coat is required on some of our 5 gallon products – see package).
Coverage rates will vary by sealer and by the condition of your driveway. Remember, a driveway that has a lot of pores and hasn’t been sealed in a while will be thirsty and will require more sealer.
It is important to remember that you don’t want to run short when sealing the driveway. Make sure you purchase enough sealer because if you stop to take a break or run out of sealer and have to buy more you may get different shades when the driveway dries. This is because the pavement and outdoor temp were different when you did the driveway… but don’t worry: the driveway should blend to one uniform color in a week or two. If it doesn’t, let us know and we’ll help you out.
Generally speaking, here is a good guide for how many 5 gallon pails to buy:
For a rough, porous driveway with small cracks and voids:
300 – 400 sq. ft. per 5 gallon pail, per coat. The second coat will require about 1/3 less product (see example below).
For a smooth, previously sealed driveway:
400-500 sq. ft. per 5 gallon pail, per coat.
For example, if your driveway is 10 ft wide x 60 ft long = 600 sq ft. If the driveway is in rough condition you would need 2 pails for the first coat and 1 pail for the second coat: FOR A TOTAL OF 3 PAILS.
Use our on-line sealer calculator
What tool do I use to seal my blacktop driveway?
If sealing with Ultra Shield, Optimum, Airport Grade, Premium Plus, or Sand Mix:
The best applicator for a driveway is a squeegee. Brushes and rollers are simply the wrong tool for the job as they do not spread the sealer evenly nor do they properly fill the pores of your asphalt like a squeegee does. (Plus, the use of a roller voids our warranty!) If you want to edge the driveway first, you may do so with a paint brush. Latexite has designed a squeegee, the Latexite 18″ Seal-Right Squeegee, to make the job for you easier. It will save time and effort and can be washed off and re-used again!
Latex·ite 18″ Seal-Right Driveway Squeegee
If sealing with Acrylic Plus or Acrylic Grade:
Latexite Acrylic Plus and Acrylic Grade Driveway Sealers should be applied with a roller. We recommend using a 3/8” nap roller for smooth/previously sealed blacktop or 1/2″ nap roller for very porous/unsealed blacktop. Squeegees or brushes will not provide adequate coverage. DO NOT use a squeegee or brush with Acrylic Plus or you significantly risk cracking and/or peeling.
How long should I wait before applying a second coat?
We recommend waiting until the first coat is fully dry / cured. It is best to give it 24 hours so that all areas, including the hairline cracks that get filled, are fully dry. If the driveway has been sealed early in the morning and the entire driveway is fully dry, you may put a second coat on later in the day.
Why are two thin coats better than one thick coat?
Applying two coats of Latexite® will dry and cure much better than one thick coat. All Latexite®sealers are water based, which “cure” via evaporation. A thin coat will evaporate much faster than a thick coat will. If you apply one thick coat, you are “locking in” that initial coat and the sealer will hold water which causes tracking.
I have a RAP driveway – can your sealer be applied on top?
Unfortunately our sealers are not recommended to cover process rap or chip stone applications as the surface is too loose and our sealers do not act as a binding agent..
Tracking question: We applied driveway sealer a few days ago – it’s been sunny and warm. It rained yesterday and we are getting some tracking from our vehicles into our garage. Is there anything we can do at this point to minimize or stop the tracking?
This is most likely caused when a brush has been used and the product was put down too thick! This is why we recommend using a squeegee and leaving a thin coat. You can alleviate the tracking by brooming the surface to remove loose particles on the surface.
I have a steep driveway – can I add sand to a pail of your driveway sealer? If so, how much and what type?
There is sand in our Ultra, Optimum, Airport and Sand Mix products (and to a lesser extent in Acrylic Plus)….but yes, if you have a steep driveway you can add sand to the pail – 1 pound of sand per 5gal pail (play or masonry sand).
Am I able to ‘cut/dilute’ the sealer a bit as it’s heavy?
Yes, you are able to cut/dilute it by adding 1/2 gallon water maximum to pail.
Have shaded areas? Give your driveway the best results possible!
Does your driveway face north? Have a lot of tree cover? Have a retaining wall that creates shade? If you answered yes to any of these that most likely means you have algae or bacteria living on your driveway!
When you coat this with driveway sealer you’re going to have a problem…it’s not going to last. Why? Well, the asphalt sealer isn’t able to ‘grab’ on ‘bond’ to the surface. But have no fear, there is an easy solution: Let’s get rid of the algae so you can have a clean surface before you seal allowing the sealer to properly bond!
Here’s how to do it: Mix a 50/50 batch of water and bleach in a pump sprayer and spray over the affected area. Scrub the affected areas with a stiff broom to help loosen material. Once dry, power-wash or rinse thoroughly the affected areas to remove the algae completely.
That’s it. Now you will have much better results and a beautiful driveway!